It’s time to talk about a recent East End shopping phenomena that has nothing to do with Smithfield, Spitalfields or Ridley Road — the ubiquitous farmers’ market.
I’ve nothing against people buying overpriced cheese in an urban environment — good luck to them — I just don’t understand why they need to recreate a Devonshire village in Hackney in order to do it. Like running a crack house in Widdecombe-on-the-Moor, it just seems like a juxtaposition too far.
When I was growing up in Devon I never once saw a farmer eating a spinach and goat’s cheese frittata, but if you absolutely have to start selling cup-cakes from a trestle table in Chatsworth Road here are my do’s and don’ts:
1: Do spread gallons of cow shit around your stall— not only will it lend authenticity to proceedings, it will also give the Trustafarians an actual reason to wear those designer wellies (apart from Bestival and Mumford and Sons’ concerts).
2: Do not feel guilty about the liberal use of the phrase ‘free-range’, even if you imported your eggs from a battery farm in east Hungary. Those chickens lived a short and brutal life, before having their necks expertly wrung by a man with very thick thumbs. Don’t let their deaths be in vain – take the cash.
3: Do put in a fake West Country accent — it will fool the assorted bankers’ wives, architects and generalized media types visiting your stall into thinking you’re as thick as pig-shit, thus allowing you to mercilessly overcharge them for cakes that you bought earlier in Greggs.
4. Do not, on any account, admit that you attended a red brick university and have never been to an actual farm — you risk being dragged through the streets, hung from the nearest lamppost and flayed alive with gluten-free baguettes. If there’s one thing the urban middle-classes hate it’s having their pretensions exposed — do so at your peril.
5. Finally, if selling pies and sausages, do plaster them with Union flag stickers. I’m not saying your average yummy-mummy is xenephobic, they just don’t like foreign meat (unless it’s attached to a man who works in Canary Wharf and drives a Range Rover).
Follow these rules and the produce will fly off your stall. And if you get any trouble from the people who live in the council blocks on the fringes of London Fields and Victoria Park, the ones who shop in Iceland and Lidl, just set the dogs on them…
Photo courtesy of escout83 on photobucket